5 November 2011 – Assembly II & Wiring

The last 2 weekends was used to assemble, de assemble assembled parts, making a few new ones in the engine bay and started with the wiring and brake pipes. These above mentioned weekends must also be ones that I probably worked the most hours on the car, on average going to bed at 12:30 in the mornings only to be and going at it again at 7 o’clock in the mornings again, it must have something to do with the fact that at least I can see some good progress on the car and just want to spend more time getting it done, then also it could be due to the fact that wiring is just one of that things in live that can get my blood boiling very quickly if it is in my way and not neat, so I’m spending a lot of time doing it my way. These wires is basically assembled in the following way, measure, gather, route, crimp, solder, isolate, isolate, isolate again, route, fasten with bloody clips costing R10 a pop, but at least it is neat and done my way.


I’m quite fortunate to have a friend in the Auto electrical business, http://www.sparxx.co.za/, which is my sole supplier for all the needed goodies when it comes to the wires, etc. The wiring is going to cost me a arm and a leg due to the way I’m doing it, but rather safe than it going out in a fire ball. I visited Henk (owner of Sparxx) and the 2 of us but together a bunch of parts to get the job going, from wires, insulation material, crimps, battery cut-off, etc. I started with the battery cables, seeing that these thick wires is a real pain in the arse to work with and wanted to get them done, in the process I also added a power socket to jump the car if the small battery runs out of juice, this was mounted away from the seats as I would hate myself if battery acid from jump cables destroyed my seats. Then the real work started with the rear light wiring, seeing as this would be the easiest and best way to get all the wires routed to the back and the neatest, the plan was to use a 7 core cable to the rear fastened along the curves of the shell to the rear and then strap another loom for the pumps etc. to the 7 core cable. With the 7 core cable in place, I had a very good idea of the length of wires needed, decided on the exact routing for the wires to the different components in the rear and started to cut the desired lengths from the reals of wire provided. Once all this was in place, I isolated them to make a loom with wire cloth tape and then covered that with some nylon braided insolation with pieces of heat shrink at the ends, this provides more than adequate insolation for the looms and looks neat. With the second loom fastened temporarily in place, I started adding connectors to the loom and for each fuel pump, which in future would make replacing or removing easer. The wiring on the gearbox was also done, who could ever think that wiring up a reverse light switch, neutral switch, speed sensor and oil temp sensor and then add 4 connectors could take 2 hours, due to the nature of me being very anal when it comes to wires, this is a reality.

Next on the list was to get the cable in place which will run from the battery cut off switch to the starter, a hole and a grommet further it was in place, but due to the location of the cut-off switch not 100% decided on the final product will have to wait until the seats is in place and further planning can be done. The same method for routing the wires to the front was used as in the back, 7 core cable fasten to shell via the damn R10 a pop clamps, why must all the good stuff in life cost so much money, R10 may not sound like a lot of money to some, but if you will need more than 30 of these mentioned clamps to keep wires, fuel lines and brake lines from vibrating themselves to pieces it adds up, ok enough of this rant. This cable will be used for the front park and indicator lights, then it was decided to run a separate loom with wires for the H4 Headlights, 2 sets of spot lights, hooter, fan and fan switch. All of this was isolated in the same way as the rear looms, but it is routed via a grommet to seal all the badness from interring the cabin, getting these looms thru the grommet was no easy feat. The fuse/relay box will be located on the passenger side, which means that currently all wiring is routed there, I’ll be using modular fuse and relay blocks, what makes these units so special is that you can add different blocks together to make your own box, very nifty stuff to work with. Next will be to get all the connectors in place and then start with the management wiring, what a job is waiting for me, especially if you are like me and likes making everything in life difficult. Very early during the project when I had to remove a A14 motor and reinstall it in another vehicle that there must be an easier way to manage wires on a motor, after a long search and stealing a few ideas from the top rally teams, it was decided to use Deutsch HD connectors on the firewall, this will enable me to loosen 1 or 2 connectors that houses all wiring going to the engine and gearbox.

When the wiring did not receive my concentration the new parts in the engine bay did, you may think why in the hell is this oke jumping around from one area to the next, well the answer is easy, after a few hours crawling around between a roll cage routing and installing wiring your back really start to give in on you, the reason why I prefer to take a break between wires and other work.

The thermostat housing was the first part that got some attention, firstly we wanted to mount it to the motor, with the plan made 100% on paper, we quickly installed the motor just to make sure it would work in real life, well as can be expected a better plan than the one on paper was discovered. One bracket later the housing was installed on the chassis just before the radiator, we had to make a new adaptor plate to get the pipes routed the way we wanted and enable us to keep bypass outlet in the system as the manufacturers intended.

Seeing that the motor was in place, it was a good idea to figure a way out to reuse the original front wheel drive intake as a temporary solution until the ITB’s find their way to the side of the head. A few pencil marks further and the throttle body flange was off and a new blank off plate made, it took as a few cuts to get the new front open big enough to not distract air flow and the correct angle to fit a filter to it. A few aluminium welds will sort it out and a blast with a few sand grains will have it looking new again.

Next on the list was the oil filter, at this point you may ask yourself, why do you need to spend time on an oil filter well, remember I like making life difficult for myself, but in the bigger picture it was decided to use an oil thermostat, due to the short idling periods before a gymkhana run. The unit in question is a “Greddy Grex Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat”, now that we have that out of the way, I just call it the filter bracket. This thing must have been designed for some other application had a few challenges in regards with the in and out oil pipes, well after playing around with different location etc. it was mounted to the driver’s side shock turret. At least it is now mounted in such a way that oil running out of it when the filter is replaced could be caught in a small bucket. I must say, besides the long name and weird layout of the in and out pipe fittings, this is quite a nifty piece of kit.

Then between some more wiring we started with the fuel cell remote filler, I decided to add another bit of weight just because I hate it to refill a car and half a litre of fuel run out of the nozzle or can when tilting it. I had a nice bracket laser cut for the Jazz Remote filler which just needed a few bends and then some side plates welded to it to form a bucket to catch any fuel spillage. This also meant that the original filler on the tank will be removed to catch some of the dust floating in the garage with a new flange.

Since my brake parts arrived from the States, on this subject I just want to add, I am tired of companies in South Africa that still need to look up the words customer service in the dictionary and then to make things worse, promise parts in 5 business days to only find that it would take 3 months to source it internally, yes I’m talking about you okes at Imperial Nissan located in Voortrekker Road Parow. One email further and a private individual running a business called Rezlo Auto Works has these parts in stock in his store room, come on Nissan SA, if private people is better supplying Genuine Nissan parts than Nissan themselves, I don’t know what happened to your society. The same with the brake parts, companies like advertising there great products, but when it comes to provide more information on the said products, the amount of words leaves me speechless and rather hitting Google to import it myself. 9 out of 10 times it is either cheaper, the same price to get better quality parts from the other side of the water than struggling with South African businesses. Hit Google my friends there are a lot more out there than the local okes wants us to believe. Ok back to the brakes, seeing that my parts arrived I made a few brackets for the chassis fittings and bend the front and rear brake lines after the T. When the gearbox is in place and I have figured out the location for the hydraulic handbrake the lines to the rear and new clutch slave cylinder can be done.

I also started mounting the switches to the steering wheel, to command the DASH2 Lcd screen and LINK ECU.

More Pictures – Assembly II & Wiring

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